What are the Different Types of Curly Hair?

Curly hair is mainly attributed to genetics, which means the texture of a person’s curl type is inherited. Curly hair forms when the hair follicle grows in the shape of an oval instead of a perfectly round one like the follicle of straight hair. And the flatter the oval, the tighter your curls will be.

Curly hair types also have more protein bonds in the hair shaft than straight hair because the sulfur-containing amino acid cysteine is found abundantly in the fibrous protein hair made up of – keratin. These cysteines bond with other cysteines further down the hair shaft, causing hair to curl. And just like the shape of the follicle, the more protein bonds in the hair shaft, the curlier your hair will appear. So without further ado, here are the classifications and characteristics of the nine different types of curly hair.

This curl type of wavy hair features the loosest “S” pattern and is often finer in texture than other curly hair types. Type 2A can be easily straightened or curled with heat tools. Be careful to avoid heavy styling products, which can weigh your loose waves down. Instead, look for an airy, water-based styling foam to fight frizz and add body and life to your waves.

This type of hair lays flatter at the crown, with waves forming further down the shaft. Type 2B strands are thicker in texture, even more prone to frizz, and difficult to straighten. A sea salt spray can enhance your natural beachy waves without making them stiff or crunchy.

This curl type is the thickest, tightest, and most frizz-prone of the wavy hair types. This type's “S” pattern is well-defined, beginning at the crown and traveling down the shaft. Because Type 2C strands are extremely frizz-prone, a good frizz-fighting leave-in conditioner will help lock in moisture and keep out frizz-inducing humidity.

This curl type features wide, loopy curls about the width of a piece of sidewalk chalk. To emphasize the curl texture and keep those curls springing back, scrunch in a curl-defining, frizz-fighting curl cream.

This curly hair type is characterized by bouncy ringlets and the circumference of a Sharpie marker. Type 3B curls are often dry and frizz-prone, so look for hydrating, strong-hold styling gels that’ll keep your ringlets perfectly defined all day long.

Curl type 3C has tight, densely-packed corkscrews about the circumference of a straw or a pencil. Coily hair like this can easily become dry and frizzy, so scrunching in a thick, hydrating, curl-defining styling mousse or cream will keep your corkscrew curls smooth and bouncy.

This type of curly hair has a tightly coiled “S” pattern with spirals about the circumference of a crochet needle. Though type 4A hair typically retains more moisture than other curl types, thick, deeply-hydrating leave-in conditioners and curl-defining creams will keep your spirals soft and bouncy.

This coily curl type is characterized by “Z”-shaped strands that are tightly packed and wiry to the touch. A thick, hydrating curling cream can help define the type 4B curl pattern for better texture and length.

Type 4Cs have the tightest coils of all the hair types, with about 75% shrinkage compared to the actual length of the hair strand. The “Z” pattern formed by this hair type is so tight and dense that it’s almost indiscernible. Type 4C curls are also the driest of curl types, so nourishing leave-in moisturizers and hair oils can help protect your coils and keep them soft and healthy.

The L.O.I.S. system is another curl type classification system that helps you find your curl type, diving deeper into curl types 3 and 4, which is a concern some have with Walker’s typing system. Known as the L.O.I.S. African American Natural Texture Typing System, this can help curl types 3 and 4 better understand their hair, including shape, thickness, and texture.

1. Hair Strand Shape

This is where the acronym “L.O.I.S.” comes in.

• “L” curl types may have a bend in the form of a right angle or “L” shape.
• “O” curl types may roll into the shape of an “O” or a zero.
• “I” hair strands are straight like a “9.”
• “S” strands are wavy or resemble an “S.”

2. Hair Strand Size

 The thickness of your hair strand is categorized as thin, medium, or thick.

• Thin hair strands are smaller than a line of sewing thread.
• Medium strands are about the same diameter as a strand of thread.
• Thick hair is classified as wider than a strand of thread.

3. Hair Strand Texture

Lastly, the L.O.I.S. system looks at texture, defined by five different categories.

• Thready. This type has a low sheen but a high shine when stretched. It’s not very prone to frizz, but it doesn’t hold moisture for long. It wets easily and dries quickly.
• Wiry. Wiry hair has a sparkly sheen but is also low in shine. It tends to resist water and can be prone to some frizz.
• Silky. This type is very shiny but low in sheen. It easily gets wet and is not usually prone to frizz.
• Spongy. This type is high in sheen but low in shine. It’s prone to shrinkage and compact frizzing. Spongy hair absorbs water but takes a while to get thoroughly wet.
• Cottony. Cottony strands are low in shine but experience a high sheen if stretched. They are also highly prone to frizz and do not get wet easily.

Conclusion

No matter what curl type you have, understanding your hair's unique needs is the key to keeping it healthy, defined, and frizz-free. Whether you have wavy, curly, or coily hair, selecting the right products for your curl pattern can make all the difference.

At John Frieda® Hair Care, we’ve developed a range of products specifically tailored to enhance and care for every curl type, from lightweight mousses for waves to deep conditioning serums for coily hair.